The stunning temples of Khajuraho

From Jhansi (after staying in Orchha), we took a local bus to Khajuraho. Sounds simple enough, but what a problem in trying to get the bus! We knew it left from the train station as our Lonely Planet indicated, but at the station the ticket office was closed, and so was the tourism office. People just pointed to a billboard (valla publicitaria) just outside the station and after finding a few people who spoke English, we learnt that we had to wait there for the bus to come. Each person said a different time: Some 10am, some 10:15, some 10:30, some 11:00. So we waited there from 9:30 just to make sure!!

The bus ride was quite an experience: five and a half hours over bumpy country roads through little villages. Given the fact that we were packed in like sardines and an average of four/five people for a three seat bench, and people standing, sitting with the driver and of course on the roof, it was quite uncomfortable and seemed to take forever. Oh and it didnt stop so it put our bladders to the test.

The stunning temples are deservedly one of India's main attractions but as it is a long way from anywhere not so many tourist go there. Arguebly, there is an airport but between choosing Air India (100$ one way) and a local government bus (2$), we preferred trusting the bus driver.
The temples which are of architectural and sculptural genius have a historic and poetic resonance that inmediately captures the imagination. Built between 950 AD and 1050, the temples have incredibly artistic stone work showing a storyboard of life a thousand years ago- gods, goddesses, warriors, musicians, real and mythological animals.


Two elements appear repeatedly, women and sex. Much of the stone work shows diferent erotic positions and possibilities. One theory is that it was a kind of kamasutra in stone, a how-to manual for adolescent boys growing up in all male temple schools. Whatever the reason, the sculpturers had a pretty impressive imagination!. The sculpture on the left is the least explicit we could find.

After 2 days in Kajuraho and probably the worst massage you could ever imagine (supposedly an indian guru of massage, but with hands like leather we think he probably works on a building site!) we took the 5 AM local bus back to Jhansi to catch the train. Next stop: Jaipur.